For my first trip for this website, I chose to travel to Bristol. I studied Law here in the noughties, so it felt fitting to return to see what had changed and what remained the same.
The night before, I stayed in a Travelodge in my childhood town of Swindon. Swindon is often criticised as a “new town” without culture or character. But this criticism is not always fair. I would be first to admit that a lot of the town has seen better days, but Swindon always seems to reinvent itself and has a strong industrial heritage. This heritage is reflected in the Swindon Designer Outlet, where bargain hunters can still unearth a good deal whilst at the same time enjoying the old industrial buildings of Swindon’s railway heritage. Amongst the Swindon Designer Outlet is the Steam museum which hosts a range of treasure troves, including a few old Steam trains. Similarly, the Health Hydro in the centre is a Victorian swimming pool built for railway workers, and it is always worth a visit. Although, I was craving for a swim, I did not have time for a swim on this occasion.
I boarded a train from Swindon to Bristol Temple Meads, travelling along the Great Western Main Line, the historic route engineered by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Under normal circumstances, the journey takes around thirty minutes. But, as has become all too familiar with British rail travel, delays kept creeping in, stretching the trip closer to an hour. In fact, every time I looked at the notice board at Swindon the delay seemed to increase in 2-minute increments.
The train journey travels through arguably some of the best countryside in the United Kingdom. Including the hills and slopes around the famous spa city of Bath. It is that kind of journey that invites you to simply gaze out of the window and drift into a daydream.
When I was younger, I would cycle from Bath to Bristol along the old canal path. Looking out at the canal from the quiet comfort of the train, it felt strangely intimate to revisit those times. Although, I must admit it did bring back flashbacks of painful joints and “cycle bum”. I will have to try that cycle ride soon now that I am older. The question is, “Will I make it?”.
Temple Meads Station was opened in 1840 and was designed by the famous British engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. It is built in the gothic revival style. On arrival, you are greeted by a striking juxtaposition of old and new. The historic station contrasts with the polished buildings of the Temple Quays business district, which runs along the river. Although the area is impressive, I have never been one to admire office buildings, and I hurried through to reach my first stop: Castle Park.
Castle Park is a large green space in central Bristol, set along the river. It occupies an area that was extensively bombed by the Luftwaffe during the Second World War. This immediately became obvious to me when coming across the ruins of St Peter’s Church, which stand at the park’s centre. The park also contains the remnants of Bristol Castle, dating back to the 11th century, which was once among the largest Norman castles in Europe. On a summer’s day the park offers a break from shopping in the nearby Cabot Circus centre and a chance to relax and catch-up with friends in a relatively quiet setting.
After visiting Castle Park, I walked towards Bristol’s lively waterside. Although on the way I could not resist stopping at St. Nicholas’ Indoor Market. This indoor market was established in 1743 under the Exchange Building on Corn Street and contains a wide range of interesting niche and boutique stores.
Bristol’s waterside contains a mix of restaurants, cafes and entertainment, which in the day offer a relaxed place to drink a beverage and watch the boats come past, whilst at night offering a place for a party and a boogie. I stopped off at an arthouse cinema, called the Watershed. The Watershed offers contemporary film and arts and is a friendly place to drink coffee and rest weary feet. I decided to stop and write whilst planning my next moves.
Refreshed with coffee and cake, I set off along the riverside towards the Clifton Suspension Bridge. On a fine day, the path is alive with activity, including boats drifting by, joggers, and walkers soaking in the river views, making for an invigorating stroll. About halfway along, you come across the SS Great Britain, another of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s remarkable designs. Launched in 1843, it was the largest passenger ship in the world for nearly a decade. The ship itself is impressive, and visitors can board it and explore. However, I was on a budget and on a mission to get to the “Bridge”, meaning that a stop was not made on this occasion.
After around forty-five minutes of walking, the route goes from a flat incline to an ascent on to streets lined with elegant Georgian buildings. Continue a little further, and you are rewarded with the sight of the spectacular Clifton Suspension Bridge, spanning the dramatic Avon Gorge.
According to local folklore, the Avon Gorge was constructed by a giant called Vincent. All I can say is Vincent must have been huge. In fact, the gorge is formed from the River Avon cutting through local limestone. It is suggested that the river was rerouted during a cold period in the current Ice Age, causing it to cut through the rock.
If you continue up the incline, you reach Clifton which hosts an old Iron Age fort. In the centre of the fort sits a former mill which is now used as an observatory and is known as “Clifton Observatory”. From here you can see spectacular views across Bristol, Avonmouth and the gorge. The path through the Downs continues along the river to the coast at Avonmouth. However, it was time for me to get back to the station and head home.
Overall, Bristol turned out to be more interesting than I remembered. There’s a good balance between lively bars, quieter corners, and enough history to keep things interesting, with its two universities giving it a noticeable buzz. It’s the kind of place you could easily spend more time in, and it was well worth those train delays.
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